Charminar, the old city landmark, is overshadowed by billboard for state-of-the-art  cancer treatment, and insane traffic.

Auto-rickshaws, which unlike the old rickshaws, have  wheels and engines, and are everywhere in Hyderabad. They’re cheaper than regular taxis, and with good reason. No air conditioning in 100-degree Indian summers; and it’s like riding in those old amusement bumper cars.

Two auto-rickshaw drivers haggling over who’s going to get my business.

The air from all the exhaust fumes from the clogged roads — two lanes, which often turn into four, as anything from two to four wheels comes right at you — isn’t good. Many wear masks to breathe a little easier.

A night on the town on the back of a motorbike.

The new city, from atop the old fort.

Even fairly modern homes have this kind of air-conditioning: water-cooled fans.

Indian bucket baths, where you use one water-saving bucket to rinse after lathering are still the norm; and an option even in this swank shower at the Aalankrita Resort, a popular local getaway outside the city.

Coconut water is a refreshing tradition…

… but most drink regular bottled water. And no, it’s not safe to drink water from the tap.

But it’s safe to drink buffalo milk. Buffalo dairies are right in the middle of the city, and I’m told these guys supply much of the yogurt.